So this TT1 thing might not be so bad..
S
o, I note a few days ago I was disappointed in some of the features that the TT1 has as far as usability and a professional scenario. I’m still not quite convinced that it is bulletproof, as I’m still waiting for the transceiver to arrive. But I have had a chance to play with the TT1 and my other plus II pocketwizard receivers. I have to say, the reason that I wanted this product in the first place, has delivered exactly what I hoped it would.
At right, you can see the result of 10 minutes of experimentation with the hypersync technology. the photo was taken off of my balcony at approximately 4 PM. The amazing thing that might not be so apparent right now is that it was taken using camera settings that would normally be impossible with the usual radio transmitters. In case you are unfamiliar with how radio transmitters work in the photography industry, the camera would only allow you to trigger your flash at a certain speed. If you exceeded the speed you would did black areas in your photos due to the curtains not being out of the way when the flash hit. With pocketwizard’s new hypersync technology you can play around with the timing of the whole event and hopefully you can reduce the affect of the curtains on your photo.
What happens when you Mix TTL and Non-TTL signals?
I don’t know yet. I’ve only done a cursory look through the configuration software and started playing around with the hikers sank last night, but it appears to be somewhat interesting. There may be a problem when you try to mix TTL and non-TTL flashes in a photograph. at one point, the flashes will go from hypersync to using FPS , which is how Nikons TTL program deals with shutter speeds that are over the typical sync speed. This FPS renders non-TTL pocketwizards useless, I think. More experimentation will have to be done once I get my transceiver in. (hurry up amazon!)
But, if I’m only using dummy receivers, and my usual menagerie of Nikon strobes, I can see some interesting ideas forming in my head about these sort of photos that can be taken without the need for F32 apertures. Couple that with a good ND filter and you might be able to shoot at 2.8 at 1/800 th of a second and still be able to use a strobe. In this way you could use off-camera lighting, freeze action, and still completely blur the background with your wide open aperture. There are also a lot of other possibilities for ultra-dramatic photography with a 4 PM sky that looks like the photo in this post.
I’m off to attempt to create a database of photos using various hypersync settings. I’ll show you the results, if it doesn’t end up breaking me first. Right now, odds are 50-50
